Training a puppy can result in a well-mannered pet. It can also mean the difference between life and death. Ten million dogs are euthanized each year because of bad behavior, it’s the number-one reason pet owners put their dogs to sleep. In addition, one million people, over half children under 12, are treated for dog bites each year. Aggressive behavior must be addressed immediately; the longer it continues, the harder it is to change.

WARNING
Learn to recognize the early warning signs of aggression by reading your dog’s body language. Aggressive threats can be made offensively or defensively. Aggressive dogs making offensive threats use body language that makes them appear larger and more intimidating.
* Tail up.
* Ears up.
* Stiff straight-legged stance.
* Hairs on back stand up.
* Lips retracted – “smiling”.
* Move toward victim or lean on victim.
* Make direct eye contact.

WHY DOGS ARE AGGRESSIVE
* Aggression is the most common behavioral problem in the country. The most common types of aggression involve dominance, fear and possession. Territory, pain, food, play and protection are other types of aggression. Most dogs have two or more forms of aggression. The average number is four. The record is nine. Learning to recognize early warning signs along with prompt behavioral intervention won’t eliminate aggressive problems completely but usually diminishes them significantly. Most cases of aggression can’t be cured but can be controlled. Therapy is geared to gradually desensitize the dog to the specific situations that cause him to react aggressively. Specific treatment protocols depend on the individual case.

* Dominance aggression is the most common type of aggression in dogs. It usually develops when dogs are socially mature between 18 and 24 months of age. These dogs challenge and threaten people to gain control by staring, barking or growling when they are given a command. They might grow or bite if disturbed while sleeping and like to get the last word in when corrected verbally. Intervention involves teaching the dog to yield to the owner for everything he or she wants. For example, learning to sit and stay for all affection, food, play and grooming. The dog must learn to take all his “cues” from the owner.

* Food related aggression is relatively common and is often a precursor of dominance aggression. All pups seven weeks of age and older should be taught to sit and stay. Use physical affection, verbal praise or food as the reward. Practice making your puppy sit and wait to be fed. When he’s done eating, take his bowl away. At the first sign of any aggression use a firm “No”. Remove your puppy from the area and remove the food. Your puppy must then earn his or her food back by sitting and staying. Sitting and staying are natural behaviors that correspond to lower positions in a dog’s social hierarchy. In this situation they act as a “time out” and train the dog that the owner is the leader and deserves the deferential behavior. The pup must take all his cues as to the appropriateness of his behavior from the owner.

WHAT YOUR VET CAN DO
* Aggressive behavior can result from medical or psychological disorders. First, see your veterinarian. An abscess tooth, infected ear, or arthritic hip cause pain which makes dogs irritable. Hormonal and neurological problems also influence behavior. A thorough work-up including a physical exam and lab tests will rule out most medical causes responsible for aggression. You will then be referred to a veterinary behaviorist. They are best suited to deal with psychological disorders since mishandled aggression is potentially dangerous.

WHAT YOU CAN DO
* Before you buy a dog, there are a few things to keep in mind. Be responsible and don’t buy on impulse. Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you’re willing and able to put into a dog.

* A dog is a 15- to 20-year emotional commitment. A little extra time and planning will help make this a positive, rewarding experience for both of you.

* If you have children, choose the breed of dog carefully, temperament is the most important consideration when it comes to kids. Try to match the personality of the dog with the personality and lifestyle of yourself and your family. Don’t choose the most aggressive puppy or the most timid one in the litter. Look at the whole litter, see how they act, and take to your heart the puppy that takes you to his. Once you pick out your puppy, then it’s time to begin socialization and training.

* Obedience training and puppy kindergarten help people get to know their pets and teach both how to interact appropriately with each other. Dogs also learn how to interact properly with other dogs, which can be very important for dogs those isolated from other dogs. These classes also help owners recognize early signs of possible behavioral problems by teaching them about normal variations and responses in their dog’s behavior during training. Most dogs with behavioral problems are not just misbehaving. They are not normal. Expecting “normal” responses by intensifying corrections in these cases is potentially dangerous for the pet and the owner. Behavioral Specialists are best qualified to work with these cases. Eighty-five percent of aggressive animals improve with appropriate treatment. An accurate diagnosis and client understanding of canine behavior are both critical factors necessary for treatment success.

WARNING
Aggressive dogs making defensive threats assume fearful postures to protect themselves:
* Tail down.
* Ears down or back.
* Eyes dilated.
* Hairs on back may or may not stand up.
* Crouched position – lean away from threat.
* Stand still or move away from threat.
* Avoid eye contact.
(NOTE: Many dogs assume offensive and defensive body postures in a given situation.)

Canine separation anxiety is a complex behavioral disorder that occurs in response to separation from the person to whom the dog is most attached. Dogs with this disorder are often well behaved when the owner or family is home, but when left alone they panic. Signs include destructive behavior such as chewing and digging, inappropriate elimination, excessive salivation, as well as barking and whining. Fourteen percent of dogs suffer from this problem, and it is the second leading cause of euthanasia by vets.

WHAT YOU CAN DO
* A way to be sure whether or not your dog suffers from separation anxiety is to videotape him when you leave. There are other disorders and illnesses with similar signs, so a consultation with your vet is important to establish the correct diagnosis.

* Dogs with separation anxiety cannot control their behavior, so punishment is not the answer. Verbal reprimands and punishment can actually make your dog more anxious and make the problem worse. The addition of another dog to the household usually does not help.

* To control canine separation anxiety medication and behavioral modification are most effective. The behavioral modification program is simple and easy to follow. For example, you might be told to avoid elaborate good-byes (ignore your dog 30 minutes before you leave) and leave a special food-filled treat in your absence. When you come home, ignore your dog until he is quiet and relaxed. Avoid constant physical contact with your dog to encourage independence. Teach your dog to sit and stay in place, and praise his calm behavior as you increase the distance between you, as well as the amount of time you spend being away. This helps him become independent and cope with being alone.

* As a complementary treatment, try the Bach Flower Essence Rescue Remedy – put a few drops in the water bowl so that your dog has access to it all day long.

WARNING
When you leave a dog that suffers from canine separation anxiety, the dog panics and starts to get upset the minute you get ready to go. Try desensitizing your dog by giving him departure clues, like putting on your coat, and playing with your car keys at times other than when you are going to leave. This helps your dog gradually gain self-confidence and become less dependent on you.

WHAT YOUR VET CAN DO
* Separation anxiety is best controlled though a two-part plan that combines behavioral training with a daily medication called Clomicalm. Clomicalm helps relieve your dog’s anxiety and makes it easier for him to learn new positive behaviors. At least 75 percent of dogs on this treatment show an improvement in less than 30 days. The length of treatment varies with the individual case.

* Acupuncture may be effective in some cases since it temporarily increases the brain chemicals serotonin and dopamine that help regulate behavior.

(NOTE: Behavior modification techniques establish a well-balanced relationship with our pet and promote independence in your dog.)

Good housebreaking techniques teach your dog to relieve himself where and when you’d like him to. Dogs instinctively mark their own territory. Therefore, your goal is to teach your dog the boundaries of his territory. Housebreaking can be learned in four to eight weeks and can start when your puppy is eight weeks old.

WHAT YOU CAN DO
* First of all, buy a crate. Be sure it’s the right size: it should be large enough for comfort, but not too big because your puppy will sleep at one end and use the other end for his business. If you get an airline-approved crate, you can also use it like a mobile home when you’re traveling. You might be able to find a crate with an adjustable divider and slide the divider back as your puppy grows.

* Puppies need to go outside when they wake up, after every meal, and before bedtime. Most puppies eliminate within the first hour after eating. They should be fed two to three times each day, at the same time. Food should be left out for 20 to 30 minutes, and the last meal should be finished five hours before bedtime.

* Take your puppy out on a leash through the same door to the same spot every time, and when he does his business, reward him with praise. If your puppy does not eliminate when you take him outside, bring him inside, put him in his crate for 15 minutes, and repeat the procedure until you achieve success. At that point, when you bring him in don’t put him back in his crate. Confine your puppy to a relatively small, safe area of your home and provide constant supervision until your puppy is completely housetrained.

* If you have to leave your puppy at home alone each day for several hours, restrict him to a larger area like a small room or a playpen. This area should provide enough space for sleeping and eating. Several feet away, place papers at the elimination site.

* A common mistake is to let your dog go outside alone. Many dogs come back inside the house and the do their business. This causes most people to become upset. Their reaction inadvertently reinforces the negative behavior. If your dog relieves himself in front of you, softly tell a shy dog “no”, or use a firmer tone with a stubborn dog. Then take him to the spot on a leash where he is supposed to relieve himself and offer him immediate praise. Correcting your dog after the fact – even if it only happened a few minutes before – is ineffective because dogs have no way of associating your discipline with a past behavior.

* If your puppy does make a mistake inside, it’s important to get rid of the odor. Effective products are available commercially and can be recommended by your vet. Using ammonia to clean up a mistake can actually make it worse. With dedication, supervision and patience housetraining your puppy will be a success.

CANINE COGNITIVE DYSFUNCTION
* A lapse in housetraining can occur later in life. Canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS) is the equivalent of Alzheimer’s disease in humans. It is the third leading cause of euthanasia, and affects over seven million dogs ten years of age and older. It is an age-related deterioration of cognitive abilities characterized by behavioral changes that include loss of housetraining, disorientation, aimless wandering, staring into space, decreased responsiveness to family members, confusion and excessive sleeping.

* There is no blood test or CAT-scan to test for cognitive dysfunction; the evidence can only be found by examining the brain post mortem. Vets make the diagnosis by ruling out other problems that cause similar symptoms. Anipryl is a once-a-day pill that has shown significant results: over 77 percent of dogs show marked improvement in less than 30 days with this new medication.

WARNING
Worm puppies and adult dogs regularly. Some worms can be spread to people, especially children. The eggs are microscopic and are eliminated in the feces.

Making sure that your puppy starts life out the right way from day one helps prevent behavioral problems from developing later in life. Puppies get new teeth until they are six months old. From four to six months of age teething is a primary concern. That’s important to understand because when puppies are teething, their gums are sore and chewing makes them feel better. Later on, dogs chew because it’s fun. Occasionally dogs chew to relieve anxiety (separation anxiety or boredom. The most common medical cause of chewing in older dogs is gum disease (gingivitis).

CHEWING
* The solution with puppies is to provide appropriate toys to chew on. Several products are available commercially, including safe edible bones and cotton “flossing” knots. You can also make chew toys out of frozen washcloths, frozen green beans, kool-aid cubes, and fruit squares. Avoid rawhide, it’s soaked in formaldehyde, which is carcinogenic, and avoid all real meat bones because they can splinter into sharp pieces which can damage the stomach and intestines.

* Don’t give your puppy your old shoes to chew on. He doesn’t know the difference between old shoes and new ones and most people don’t appreciate their new shoes being chewed up.

* Older dogs that chew excessively may have either a medical or behavioral problem. First check with your vet: have a complete physical and dental examination. Eighty-five percent of dogs over eight years old have gum disease, which is painful and is also a leading cause of heart disease. A professional dental cleaning generally solves the problem.

TIP
Get your puppy out into the world and introduce him to as many new sights, sounds, smells and tastes as you can. Take him for a brisk walk before you leave him alone at home. Chances are he’ll be inclined to relax and take a nap while you’re gone and leave your house intact.

PUPPY-PROOFING YOUR HOME
* When you bring home a new puppy, you will need to adjust your lifestyle. Expect inconvenience and plan to spend a lot of time together. Puppy proof your home: make your house and your yard as safe as possible. Puppies are just like toddlers – everything they see goes into their mouth. So look at your house from a puppy’s perspective. Crawl around on your hands and knees if you need to. Look for temptations that could be dangerous like electric cords, small toys they can chew up and swallow, aw well as plants that might be toxic such as holly, ivy, and azaleas.

Outside be careful where you place pesticides like ant baits, rat poison and antifreeze containers. Also be sure your trashcan is off limits and has a secure lid.

* If you see your puppy doing something dangerous, use negative reinforcement to stop him right away so he does not hurt himself. So, for example, if you see him chewing on an electric cord, make a sudden loud noise with a shake can. To make a shake can, just taken an empty soda can and fill it with a handful of pennies (they fit right through the slot) and start shaking.

KEEPING YOUR PUPPY BUSY
Toys help keep puppies from becoming bored and chewing on household items like your furniture. Toys also stimulate your puppy mentally and encourage problem solving. Some toys are not only educational they are also instant boredom busters. Other toys can be stuffed with treats like peanut butter and cheese. Certain cube-type toys are divided up into compartments so you can load them up with dry food and other goodies. As the puppy pushes the cube the treats are released to keep his interest and reward his efforts.

Training is basic obedience. It’s teaching your dog to sit, stay, come, and heal. When your dog learns to listen to you, you can do a lot of fun things together. Best results are achieved with training between eight weeks and seven months of age.

TRAINING YOUR DOG
The best way to start training is with positive reinforcement. Try to figure out what your puppy likes best (food, a particular toy, or physical affection), and use that as the reward when he performs the correct behavior for you. Turn favorite activities into games. Based on natural instincts, certain breeds enjoy certain games. For example, springers like to run, so play ball. Creative games educate your puppy and provide a physical outlet for all that energy. They also promote emotional and social growth, improve coordination, and enhance your relationship. Avoid rough games like tug-of-war, wrestling, and chasing because they teach your puppy to struggle against you.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO
* Even the best trained dogs only listen 80 percent of the time, so when your puppy doesn’t listen, be patient and don’t give up. If your puppy is doing something dangerous, use negative reinforcement to stop him right away so he doesn’t hurt himself. For example, if you see your puppy chewing on an electric cord, spritz him with water or make a sudden loud noise (blow a horn).

* If you do encounter a behavioral problem with your dog at any age it is important to get help. Talk to your vet, who can check for underlying medical conditions that might be the cause. Once a medical problem is ruled out, a behavioral specialist would be the next step.

INTRODUCING A DOG TO A BABY
* Expecting a new baby can change a lot of things, including your adult dog’s behavior. His position in your family will change and you don’t want him to blame the baby. Make as many changes in your home environment and your dog’s routine as early as you can.

* If certain areas of your home will be off limits, like the nursery, establish that now. It’s also a good idea to teach your dog the difference between his toys and the baby’s. For dogs that have trouble differentiating between certain toys, use scent recognition to teach them the difference – put a dab of Listerine on the baby’s toys, truss the scented baby toy and a dog toy then play the game “which one is yours?” Playing this game once a week, most dogs learn the difference within a month.

* The sound of a crying baby also upsets a lot of adult dogs, so it’s a good idea to desensitize your dog to the sounds before the baby arrives. Use a tape of a baby crying, put it in the crib, turn it on and see how your dog reacts. Some experts recommend that you go so far as to get a doll and rehearse various activities that you’ll actually perform with the baby in the dog’s presence. When your dog acts indifferently to the crying or the particular activity, he is desensitized.

* Finally, when the big day arrives, dad should wait in the car with the baby while mom goes inside and greets the dog. Once the initial excitement is over, she should put the dog on a leash and have him sit or lie next to her while dad enters with the baby in his arms. Mom then slowly walks the dog toward the baby and dad. If the dog balks, acts nervous or anxious at any point, stop and try again later. If all seems fine, let your dog sniff your baby. Most dogs treat babies with indifference and move on. The key is to introduce them gradually, don’t force it and don’t make a fuss. And no matter how well you know your dog, never leave him alone with your baby. Most dogs adjust quickly to the new addition.

COMPLEMENTARY TREATMENTS
HERBAL REMEDIES
If your dog has a nervous disposition, try skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora) to calm him down, first talk to your vet.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Kali phosphoricum 6x can be beneficial for hyperactive dogs. Give this salt on a daily basis for four weeks.

Most puppies respond best to praise, positive reinforcement, lots of love and rewards. Once you understand how your puppy learns, then try to figure out what he likes and doesn’t like.

For example, his favorite foods and types of toys. Most puppies prefer certain types of textures especially leather shoes when they are teething. Dogs like some odors, for example many come romping into the kitchen when they smell “freshly roasted” turkey on your kitchen counter. That’s because they associate it with something good, food!! Certain loud noises like thunderstorms and fireworks make alot of dogs run under beds. That’s because they are loud and scary. Most puppies also enjoy stealing your socks and panties and that’s because they associate them with someone they love, “you”. If you set your home up accordingly, you can prevent mistakes and avoid a lot of problems.

Scratching is a natural grooming behavior that keeps your cat’s claws in good shape and is another way cats mark their territory. Unfortunately, it can also ruin your furniture and destroy your home.

WHAT YOU CAN DO
To prevent the development of bad scratching habits, get a scratching post when you get a cat. Keep lots of your cat’s toys near it and put it in a place your cat likes, such as a favorite window or in the family room. You can also rub catnip into the post or put a catnip ball at the top. If you make your own scratching post, many cats like loosely woven material they can hook their claws into like hemp. An alternative to a scratching post is a carpeted climbing tree which many cats enjoy. Climbing trees also provide your cat with an outlet for exercise and games.

A cat’s lifestyle naturally consists of regularity, territorial definition, low population density, and a hierarchy in which one reproductively active male is dominant. Many pet loving homes inadvertently depart from these conditions. This leads to social unbalance, confusion, and stress. Within the feline household, cats respond accordingly and a wide range of behavioral problems are the ultimate result.

Drugs called Psychotropic Medications may be prescribed by your vet. They consist of anti-anxiety medications like Prozac and Paxil, hormone treatments such as Ovaban and Estrogen, and mild tranquilizers including Valium. Most of these are used as a last resort in treating psychological behavioral problems. These drugs help:
* reduce aggressive problems in cats that bite and scratch their owners,
* stop territorial marking behaviors including urine spraying, and
* reduce fear and anxiety during adjustment periods, for example, new pet in home, moving to new home, ongoing construction, and holiday guests.

They also help reduce:
* destruction of the home e.g. clawing furniture
* wool chewing, wool sucking, and
* other compulsive behaviors, including over grooming

WHAT YOU CAN DO
Give all the love, patience and understanding these problems require and work together with your vet to restore harmony.

COMPLEMENTARY THERAPY
Complementary therapy is useful to modify stressful behavior. Bach Flower Essences are dilute preparations of flowers and tree buds that act primarily on the state of mind and are effective to treat emotions associated with fear, panic, stress and tension. They have a claming, stabilizing effect, and are given by mouth several times a day. For example, Rescue Remedy is popular. It is a composite of five flower essences. Two to three drops in the mouth, food or water three times daily decreases anxiety and is often effective. Flower essences are also very safe, even if accidentally overdosed.

Despite our best efforts, many of these problems can not be prevented and require treatment. A variety of treatments are available. Most problems are best handled most effectively through a combination of physical (termed behavioral redirection) and medical intervention. Always check with your vet for specific recommendations. This summary is geared to simplify some of the most common methods available to modify undesirable feline behaviors.

NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT
Make a sudden unusual loud noise to interrupt the behavior – blow a whistle or a horn, shake a shake can or click a clicker. You could squirt the cat with a water filled squirt gun or spritz the cat with a water filled spritzer. This is effective to treat aggression towards a person, as well as to prevent cats from physically injuring themselves, for example, if your cat was chewing a poisonous plant. It is also helpful for compulsive problems like over grooming as well as for cats that chew and claw your furniture.

OBNOXIOUS STIMULI

Obnoxious stimuli are strong odors, like perfume that cats dislike.

Urine spraying is also called urine marking and is not an elimination problem. Urine or scent marking is normal behavior which cats use to define their territories. It usually starts at 5 to 6 months of age when kittens become sexually mature and hormones become active. Cats stand, (not squat) back up against a wall, raise their tail and spray small amounts of urine on vertical surfaces like walls, windows and curtain. Intact, non-neutered males are most prone. But neutered males and females also occasionally spray.

CAUSES
* Normal territorial behavior
* Behavioral Disorder – caused by stress, fear, and anxiety often induced by any change in the environment. Stress and anxiety can occur because of any changes in the home, like the addition of a new person, pet or item of furniture;, even a dietary change. Cats spray if they feel threatened by the presence of another cat. Frustration can result in spraying such as an indoor cat that would prefer to be outside.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO
* Since this is a natural behavior with a hormonal influence, neutering generally solves the problem. Hormone levels take 6 weeks to decrease once cats are neutered. Cats neutered prior to sexual maturity at 4 to 6 months old, have a much lower incidence of spraying.

* Remove the odor: Use products to effectively eliminate the urine such as Elim Odor, K.O.E., Anti Icky Poo or remove the item if possible, i.e. carpet.
* Modify behavior by eliminating the source of conflict; frustration or stress.
* Give cat more private time and personal space, close curtains or shades if indoor cat wants to go outside. Don’t rush introductions between new cats or between your cat and a new dog.
* Try Feliway: Feliway ™ is from France. It is an artificial pherome spray approved for reducing urine spraying but also seems to calm cats down, and promote a relaxed setting in which introduction of new cats may be more successful.

COMPLEMENTARY THERAPY
ANIXETY REDUCTION WITH FLOWER REMEDIES
* Flower remedies help reduce stress. With an older cat that is very attached to his owner and home introducing a new cat might make your cat afraid he’s losing his territory and therefore he might become more possessive. Use “Mimulus: for fear of losing home and possessions and “Holly” for jealousy and suspicion. If you adopt a timid cat who is petrified of the new environment, use” Rock Rose” for terror.

* Bach Flower Rescue Remedy: Bach Flower Rescue Remedy is the most popular and well-known Bach Flower Remedy available. Health food stores carry it already mixed. It is made of five flowers. It may be used for injury, crisis, and shock or just to calm a nervous cat down. 2 to 3 drops, 2 to 3 times daily in mouth or food: or 4 drops in water bowl if you are not going to be home.

CONVENTIONAL THERAPY
* Valium and Alprazolam must be prescribed by your vet but are effective in 75 percent of cases and eliminate spraying due to anxiety. They do have side effects, if used long term.

TIP:
A combination of Behavioral Modification methods and medication are often most effective to solve urine spraying.

TIP:
Neutering at a young age is the easiest way to prevent most urine spraying.

TIP: Feliway, a pheromone spray approved to reduce urine spraying. It also calms cats down.

URINE SPRAYING/ SCENT MARKING ACTIVITY
Scent marking activity is also commonly called urine praying. This may occur when kittens become sexually mature (five to six months of age). They start to spray urine. Spraying is a natural territorial behavior. The cat generally stands up to spray urine on vertical surfaces like walls, windows, and furniture. (Normally cats squat to urinate.) Non-neutered (intact) male cats spray urine to mark their territory while intact (non-spayed) female cats spray when they are in heat. In both cases, this is a
natural behavior with a hormonal influence, and neutering or spaying the cat generally solves the problem.
Occasionally, neutered cats spray because they are upset or stressed. Stresses can include changes in the environment, like the addition of a new pet or family member, and/or a lack of personal space, which is not uncommon in multi-cat homes.

WHAT YOU CAN DO

At home you can give your cat private peaceful personal space. For example, his own private room with his own private litter box. If necessary your vet can relieve stress with medication, either psychotropic drugs or flower essences such as Rescue Remedy.

INAPPROPRIATE ELIMINATION

Failing to use the litter box is the number one behavioral problem cat owner’s face. It is also a leading cause of euthanasia. All medical and psychological causes must be ruled out by your vet before this diagnosis can be confirmed. Inappropriate Elimination is the term used when behavioral problems cause cats not to use their litter box.

CAUSES

* Litter Aversion is a problem in which the cat does not use the litter box, but defecates and/or urinates on horizontal surfaces, for example, your beds, bathtubs, or rugs. If your cat eliminates just outside the box, then she probably dislikes either the litter box or the litter inside it. If she eliminates somewhere else, it may be because she would prefer to have the litter box moved to a different location

LITTER: Most cats like the new fine “silaceous”, clumping litter. Use soft, granular, unscented varieties. A litter depth of ½ to ¾ inches is best. A lot of cats won’t use litter that’s too deep. Potting soil is an option for outside cats moving inside.

LITTERBOX TIPS: Litter box problems are the toughest problem cat owner’s face.
Prevent mistakes before they become bad habits. First get a litter box that fits your cat’s size and shape. Place the box in a semi private area accessible to you and your cat and keep it clean.
* The texture of litter is important. Most cats like the new fine granular clumping, soft unscented varieties of litter.
* A litter depth of ½ to ¾ inches is best. A lot of cats won’t use litter that’s too deep.
* Older arthritic cats have trouble if the sides of the box are too high or they have to go up and down stairs to get to the box.
* Many, especially shy cats, prefer privacy but don’t like to feel “trapped”. Some cats like covers, others may object to the darkness.
* Place the box in a somewhat private area easily accessible to you and your cat. Avoid cold, dark drafty basements.
* Use one box per cat per floor of the home.
* Keep the box clean. It should not smell. New automatic litter boxes clean litter 10 minutes after each use.
* Liners are available. They help with cleanliness. Cats may or may not tolerate them.
* The litter box should fit your cat’s size and shape. It should not be too big or too small.
* Some cats like covers, kittens may object to the darkness.
* Use plain clay litter, not scented litter or clumping litter.
* Switch to plain clay regardless of what you have been using.
* Use potting soil for an outdoor cat coming inside to live.
* Keep the box clean; scoop it out daily. Completely replace all the litter every three to five days.
* Don’t put the litter box where the cat eats or sleeps.
* In multi-cat households use a minimum of one box per two cats.
* Overuse of deodorizers can cause litter aversion.
* Poor box location can lead to house soiling.

LOCATION OF LITTERBOX
* Place the box in a semi private area accessible to you and your cat.
* Avoid cold, dark musty basements, garages, laundry rooms and avoid busy noisy areas.
* Shy cats prefer privacy but don’t like to feel trapped. Be sure there is more than one way in and out of the area. If cats can see all around them, they feel more secure.
* Place the box in a quiet area and/or get a cover or privacy screen for the box.
* Don’t put the litter box where your cat eats or sleeps. Avoid tiny closets that cats have to squeeze in and out of.
* If your cat eliminates somewhere else, she might prefer the litter box if it was placed in a different location.

TIP
Don’t use Ammonia based products to clean up urine mistakes. Urine contains ammonia, so these products generally make the problem worse.

URINE ODORS TIP: Your vet can recommend the best commercially available products to eliminate urine odors. Larger boxes with more litter that are frequently cleaned solve a lot of problems.

OBNOXIOUS STIMULI - For cats that still eliminate in the wrong area after relocating litter box, making the area less appealing occasionally helps. Try obnoxious stimuli. These are strong odors like - Oil of Wintergreen or Menthol. Cats hate the smell. Use them to spray the area the cat is eliminating in to make it less desirable and she might decide to use her litter box. Don’t spray them near her litter box.

TIP - Cats do not need to be trained to use a litter box. It is instinctive behavior from 4 weeks of age. Confining your new kitten to a small room containing the litter box for a few days helps familiarize her initially with its location and her new surroundings. In an adult cat with inappropriate elimination, that is not using the litter box because of behavioral problems, isolation or confinement for over 30 minutes is not effective and can make the problem worse. It increases anxiety, fear and stress.
* Refer to a Behavioral Specialist if changes to litter, box and location don’t solve the problem.

A Breakaway Collar, with a bell attached, can be tried to interrupt inappropriate elimination. It startles the cat and is a form of negative reinforcement. You must be at home to use it but no guarantee you will catch the cat in the act. Negative reinforcement used to interrupt undesirable or dangerous behavior is only effective if done within 60 seconds of the act.

TIP: Electronic or magnetic access collars allow entry only; increase privacy and confidence are an option for a cat afraid to use her box because of conflict in home between cats. Ask your vet if this is appropriate.