Dog Fancy March 2008

FEATURES
26 FOOD FOR THOUGHT: THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO YOUR DOG’S DIET

There’s much more to canine nutrition than just kibble and canned food. Our experts explore it all to give you a well-rounded perspective. BY MARCIA KING

The Raw Food Diet

Question for the Experts: Does raw food, being closer to the natural diets of wild animals, offer better nutrition for dogs?

NO “There is no scientific evidence base that shows benefits for feeding raw food,” Becvarova says. “Conversely, multiple studies document that raw meats may contain harmful bacteria and parasites that may cause illness of pets.”

YES “Benefits include overall health improvements, including relief from allergies and anal sac problems, better oral hygiene, and improved skin and hair coat,” says veterinarian Carol Osborne. “My seven years of research, backed by double-blind clinical trials, showed that pets respond very well to a balanced, wholesome, natural diet. Whether a pet responds best to a raw food or a cooked homemade diet depends on the specific pet.”

Meet The Experts

Carol Osborne, DVM, is a veterinarian in Chagrin Falls, Ohio, and the creator of PAAWS: Pet Anti-Aging Wellness System. She has a special interest in longevity research and is the author of Dr. Carol’s Naturally Healthy Dogs.

Iveta Becvarova, DVM, is a board-certified veterinary nutritionist who treats patients at the Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine in Blacksburg, Va.

Duane Ekedahl is the president of the Pet Food Institute, which represents the manufacturersof 98 percent of all dog and cat food produced in the United States and supports advancements in the quality of pet food and in pet nutrition

How do you know if the food you are buying is really any good? And can it be fed appropriately to your pet? To address these issues, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) was founded in 1909. This is the group that defines ingredients and official nutritional terms, and determines the protocols by which pet foods are tested.

The AAFCO allows for an alternative certification: a biochemical analysis. In this way the biochemical composition of the diet is compared to known optimal quantities. This enables a diet to become certified as complete without actually being tested on living animals. Since nutrients in the food aren’t always digestible, a chemical analysis may not really tell the nutritional story of the food. In general, it is better to feed a diet that has been objectively studied and proven itself in real animals. If words such as “feeding trials” or “feeding tests” aren’t used, it wasn’t tested on real animals. Words to the effect of “meets the standards of the AAFCO” mean only that it achieves the biochemical analysis certification, and not that it was actually tested by feeding it to live animals.

YES! The wording of the label the manufacturer is allowed to use on the food depends on HOW MUCH chicken or fish (or other ingredients) is actually inside the can or bag of food! Knowing what the wording of the labels mean can help you make sure you are feeding your pet what you think you are feeding them.

Pancreatitis is severe inflammation of the pancreas that often occurs due to eating too much rich, fatty food or getting into the garbage. Minature Schnauzers and obese dogs have the highest incidence of this disease. Dogs allowed to sample the feast at holiday celebrations often end up with indigestion and pancreatitis. With repeated episodes of inflammation, the pancreas loses its ability to function properly which can lead to diabetes.

SYMPTOMS
* Vomiting.
* Diarrhea.
* Abdominal pain.
* Depression and lethargy.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO
* Diagnosis is based on history, signs, and blood work if necessary. Treatment is geared to allow the intestinal tract to rest by withholding all food and water for up to 24 hours. Fluids may be given under the skin (subcutaneously), or in cases with vomiting fluids are replaced intravenously. Most dogs respond to treatment and in a few days are gradually put back onto food, starting with a bland diet given in small portions several times daily.

* Prevention using moderation is the best policy. Avoid fatty foods and feed several small meals daily. If necessary use a digestive enzyme supplement containing lipase, protease, and amylase. Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Selenium help reduce pancreatic damage due to free radicals.

COMPLEMENTARY TREATMENTS

HERBAL REMEDIES
The use of yarrow (Achillea millefolium) can bring some relief, particularly where there is also bad diarrhea. Fresh yarrow leaves can be chopped and added to your dog’s food, three times daily for up to one week.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Iris versicolor 6x may help to overcome the effects of pancreatitis. Treatment is usually recommended every four hours until the symptoms have disappeared. If this is going to be effective some relief should be apparent within the first 24-hours.

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease caused by worms called Dirofilaria immitus. These worms are “spaghetti-like”, grow up to 12″ long, and reside in the heart. The Larval Form of this worm is transmitted by the bite of a mosquito. Dogs and cats of all ages and breeds are susceptible.

The worms live in the right side of the heart and generally cause severe heart and lung damage before any signs of disease become apparent. Dogs can have up to 100 worms living in their heart for up to 7 years.

General signs:
* Coughing (especially after exercise)
* Difficulty Breathing
* Lethargy
* Weight Loss

Dogs also lose energy. For example, if your dog used to jog with you a mile each day, now he may only be able to make it for 1 or 2 blocks then he might begin coughing and/or even faint.

Transmission of the heartworm occurs only through the bite of a mosquito. Immature “Larvae” forms of the worm (called “Microfilaria”) float in the blood of infected animals and are picked up when the mosquito bites them. Then the mosquito transmits the heartworm to all of the other animals it bites.

Outdoor dogs are most susceptible but mosquito’s slip through cracks and screen doors with ease therefore, all dogs and cats are at risk. Those living indoors and out. Treatment is risky and extensive, occasionally even fatal. Prevention eliminates the need for a cure.

Newer heartworm preventative medications also protect pets from fleas, ticks, and intestinal worms (hookworms, whipworms, and roundworms). Most of these products are given monthly as tablets (i.e., Program, Sentinel) or as liquids, which are applied topically to the skin between the shoulder blades (i.e., Advantage, Frontline, Revolution). Before giving any preventative medications, pets should be blood tested to be sure they are not infected. Your vet can help you decide which product is best for your pet.

HEARTWORM LIFE CYCLE
Transmission of the heartworm only occurs through the bite of a mosquito. The heartworm life cycle takes 6 months at which point adult male and female heartworms reproduce in the heart and lay living young called “microfilarie.” The
microfilarie float out into the blood stream and wait for the next mosquito. The mosquito picks up this immature heartworm (the microfilarie) when it bites the dog. Once inside the mosquito, the microfilarie develop into the infective “larvae” form over the next several weeks. When a mosquito with the “larvae” form feeds on an uninfected dog, it deposits these larvae into the dog’s bloodstream. The larvae spend the next 6 months migrating in the dog’s blood stream until they reach the heart where they mature into adults and produce more microfilarie.

COMPLEMENTARY TREATMENTS
HERBAL REMEDIES FOR INTESTINAL WORMS

Remedy #1: Crush one clove of garlic and mix with seven minced pumpkin seeds, one sprig of thyme and some honey. Roll into balls and give all at once. Useful for intestinal worms.

Remedy #2: Sprinkle a quarter to one teaspoonful of ground pumpkin seeds over food for tapeworms.

Remedy #3: Black walnut is advocated by some for heartworms, but I do not recommend this.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Cina 3x (wormseed) taken three times daily for at least 21 days helps clear roundworms. Filix mas 3x (male fern) is used to eliminate tapeworms and is also given three times daily for 21 days.

The most common intestinal parasites affecting dogs are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms. In addition, roundworms and hookworms can be transmitted to humans. Roundworms are a threat to children that eat dirt. These worms can damage the retina of the eye leading to blindness. They can also infect the brain and spinal cord which can be fatal. Approximately three percent of people in the United States test positive for roundworm infections. Hookworms can penetrate the skin and cause “Plumbers Itch”. This is typical in those walking barefoot on the beach as well as electricians and plumbers who crawl under raised buildings.

SYMPTOMS

* Roundworms cause puppies to develop a rough haircoat and a potbelly. They may experience vomiting and/or diarrhea. Most adult dogs with roundworms show no signs; occasionally they have vomiting and diarrhea.

* Hookworms attach to the wall of the small intestines, suck blood and cause anemia, which can be life threatening in puppies.

* Tapeworms cause few symptoms other than a rough haircoat and unthrifty appearance.

* Whipworms cause diarrhea and weight loss in adult dogs. They only lay eggs periodically so are tough to detect on fecal exams.

CAUSES

* Almost all puppies are born with roundworms in their lungs. At 21 days of age, pups can pass the eggs in their feces. If these eggs are swallowed again further infection results. Infection with hookworms and whipworms can also result from ingesting microscopic eggs on the ground. Normally worm eggs are microscopic but in severe cases the adult worms may appear in the vomitus or diarrhea of infected puppies.

There are two types of tapeworms in dogs:
* Fleas transmit a form called Dipylidium canium. The flea deposits the larval form of the worm in the dog’s blood, prior to withdrawing its blood meal. Three months later owners see flat white, rice-like segments in the dog’s stool or on the anal area.

* Dogs contract the second type, Taenia, by eating infected rodents and rabbits. Whipworms, Trichuris Vulpis, attach to the large intestine and cause chronic diarrhea, weight loss and anemia in dogs. Cats are not susceptible.

WHAT YOUR VET CAN DO
Worms are usually detected by a microscopic examination of your dog’s stool. Safe, effective treatments for all of these worms are available through your vet. Most new over-the-counter products labeled for flea and heartworm prevention have the added advantage of controlling intestinal parasites in dogs and cats. Sentinel is a tablet given monthly that controls heartworms, fleas and intestinal parasites. Program is also a tablet that prevents fleas and intestinal worms. Revolution is a liquid product applied to the skin between the shoulder blades at 30-day intervals, it controls heartworms, fleas and intestinal worms. Advantage is a monthly liquid labeled for fleas and intestinal parasites.

Over half of our dogs are clinically obese, which by definition means they are 15 percent or more above their ideal weight. Being 10 percent overweight decreases a dog’s life span by one third and predisposes them to heart, liver, and kidney disease as well as arthritis. More females are affected than males. Hormones, genetics and individual variations in metabolism and appetite are predisposing factors. But, the most common cause of obesity by far is owners who indulge their dogs with treats, table scraps and oversized portions.

CAUSES
* Overeating excess amounts of food is the number one cause.
* Lack of exercise.
* Neutering can promote weight gain.
* Hormonal disorders especially low levels of thyroid hormone.

WARNING
Don’t sit on a sofa one day and decide to take a 10-mile hike the next. Increase your dog’s level of activity gradually a little bit each day.

YOUR DOG’S WEIGHT
* To determine whether or not your dog is overweight, give him a rib check. You should be able to easily feel but not see each rib. Dogs should have a waist, which is the tucked up area behind the ribs. If your dog has lost his waist and/or if you can pinch more than an inch, it’s time to cut back.

Preventing excess weight gain initially is much easier than trying to lose weight. Weigh and record your dog’s weight each time you visit your vet.

* Before beginning any weight-loss program, confirm your suspicions with your vet and rule out medical problems that mimic obesity including heart and liver disease, Thyroid disorders, Diabetes, and Cushing’s disease.
(NOTE: Regular weight checks help monitor your dog’s body weight.)

WHAT YOU CAN DO
* You should feed your dog a diet consisting of lean protein and high-fiber (over 15 percent), with low fat; less than 10 percent. Increasing the fiber provides bulk which fills him up and keeps him happy but spares calories at the same time. You need to decrease your dog’s total number of calories by 20 percent to lose weight. Set a maximum initial weight loss at 15 percent and calculate your feedings and exercise to achieve this goal.
Increase the number of meals up to six per day – the more meals you eat, the more your metabolism is stimulated which requires energy and burns calories. Don’t free-feed. Leave meals out for 20 minutes, then pick them up. Throw table scraps into the garbage and keep snacks to less than 5 percent of the total daily diet. Feed healthy snacks like white asparagus tips, cantaloupe slices, carrots and pumpkin.

* Monitor your dog’s weight weekly: post a chart on the refrigerator door. It’s also fun to take “before” and “after” photos. When your dog reaches his target weight, change from the reducing diet to a weight maintenance diet. Monitor weight changes carefully for the first 60 days. Record his weight once a month for the first six months, then four times a year.

* Aim for a minimum of 20 minutes of exercise each day. Two 10-minute walks is a good start and you can gradually build up from there. Local canine sport clubs are fun for the whole family and offer activities for all breeds. Agility, flyball and terrier trials are popular and lure coursing is a favorite for site hounds. Some fitness centers and health spas now offer packages to get you and your dog into tip top shape.

Anal sacs are structures located on either side of the anus. They contain a semi-liquid, vile-smelling material that is normally expelled passively when dogs defecate. Sometimes anal sacs don’t empty properly because of an infection, impaction, an abscess or even a tumor. Bacteria can infect the anal sacs which results in pain and itching. Left untreated, infections can lead to an abscess. Cancerous growths in the anal sacs are found most often in Dachshunds, Cocker Spaniels, German Shepards, Beagles, English Bulldogs and Samoyeds. Some are benign; others can be very aggressive forms of cancer.

SYMPTOMS
* Dog scooting or dragging his hind end across the floor.
* Excess licking or biting at anal area.
* Tail chasing.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO
* In most cases emptying the sacs by massage and manual expression provides effective relief. Medication may be indicated to relieve pain and treat infection if present. Occasionally, with severe recurrent and persistent anal sac problems a sacculectomy, which is the surgical removal of the anal sacs, is the most humane, cost-effective solution. Having your vet check the anal sacs at 30-day intervals helps prevent some cases from becoming more severe.

* Warm compresses applied to the anal area twice a day for 5 to 10 minutes help relieve pain and discomfort. A dab of Vaseline or mineral oil applied topically is soothing.

COMPLEMENTARY TREATMENTS

HERBAL REMEDIES
Increasing dietary fiber promotes natural anal sac expression. Psyllium is a good source of dietary fiber. Whole grains and seeds are useful and increasing exercise helps prevent obesity.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Silicea 6c given twice a day for three days can be useful for scooting. Hepar sulphuris calcareum 30C is usually recommended for anal sac abscesses. Both treatments are initially given once a day for five days.

A food allergy by definition is an abnormal reaction to an ingested food or a food additive, which is often a protein source. Actual food allergies are responsible for ten to twenty percent of allergic (adverse) skin diseases in dogs and cats and adverse skin reactions are less common in dogs than in cats. Food allergies are the third most common allergic skin disease in dogs and cats after Flea Allergy Dermatitis and Inhalant Allergies.

Beef, dairy and wheat are the ingredients incriminated in 68 percent of dogs with allergic skin disease. Adverse reactions to chicken, chicken eggs, lamb and soy are responsible in approximately 25 percent of canine cases. Corn and food additives are occasionally significant.

Up to 1/3 of dogs with skin disease due to food allergies are less than a year old. All breeds are susceptible, but those at increased risk include:
* Cocker Spaniels
* Springer Spaniels
* Labrador Retrievers
* Collies
* Miniature Schnauzers, and
* West Highland White Terriers.

(NOTE: German Shepards and Chinese Sharpei’s are two breeds that, like most people, get diarrhea instead of skin disease as the result of food allergies.)

(NOTE: Dogs with milk intolerance generally experience diarrhea, bloating and abdominal pain. The intolerance is actually an inability to digest the milk protein “Lactose”.)

The most common sign is year-round itching. Dogs classically lick and rub their face, fee, armpits and groin. A copper colored discoloration often occurs as a result of the constant licking and is a prominent sign in certain white-coated breeds, i.e. the West Highland Terrier.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO

The dog’s nutritional history should include a complete list of commercial and homemade foods as well as snacks, treats, chew toys, chewable medications, and human foods.
1. The only way to find out the true cause of a food allergy is to use an elimination diet. A single source of protein is used for 12 weeks to see if the dog’s condition improves. Then new ingredients are added back into the diet one at a time, every five to seven days, until the problem recurs.

Using this method, and noting what was added when, if there is a reaction you will know which food ingredient is responsible for the problem.

2. For the elimination diet to work, start by using a protein source the dog has not been previously exposed to like lamb, fish, rabbit, venison or tofu.

3. The protein should be highly digestible (over 87 percent digestibility).

4. Avoid food with over 30-45 percent protein in skin cases only.

5. Use foods with no or few additives.

6. Ingredients recommended for homemade canine diets that work best initially for dogs include one protein source or a combination of one protein and one carbohydrate source. For example:
* Lamb baby food
* Lamb
* Rice and rabbit

7. Use distilled water or boil tap water and refrigerate – this helps avoid chlorine, which can be a factor.

8. If diarrhea is present, avoid foods with wheat, barley, or rye.

Food allergies tend to be lifelong but once you identify the offending allergen, you can find a variety of suitable diets that don’t include the problem foods but still provide a balanced diet. Your vet can suggest appropriate “allergen” free diets you can make at home or buy. Keep a daily diary during the elimination phase to keep track of the type of food eaten and any signs that occurred as a result.

If a food allergy is the only cause of the problem, itching should stop and signs should improve 100 percent. Up to 1/3 of dogs and cats with food allergies also have other allergies and therefore, may only respond partially to an elimination diet. Flea Allergy Dermatitis and Inhalant Allergies are the most common causes and should be ruled out through other testing.

COMPLEMENTARY TREATMENTS

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Vitamin C in high doses acts as an antihistamine and may help with itching, if present. A daily dosage up to 1,000 mg is recommended. Adding Vitamin B complex to the daily diet is also useful. Give the dog a quarter to one tablet each day.
(NOTE: Vitamin dosage will vary depending on body weight.)

Bloat is a true life-and-death emergency in dogs. The stomach fills up with air and/or fluid (simple bloat) and may or may not rotate (complex bloat). Large, deep-chested breeds like Great Danes, Dobermans and Irish Setters are predisposed. The exact cause is unknown. Most cases present with a classic history. Dogs eat one big meal, drink a lot of water, then go outside to play. They come back inside bloated. Their abdomen is distended and they may salivate, retch, and/or belch. As the pain gets worse, dogs become restless and tend to get up and lie down repeatedly. Without treatment, bloat can be fatal. The classic history along with x-rays generally confirms the problem.

SYMPTOMS
* Large distended abdomen.
* Sudden onset of severe abdominal pain and distress.
* Salivate, retch, belch.

WHAT YOU AND YOUR VET CAN DO
* To treat simple bloat a stomach tube is passed which relieves the gas and decompresses the stomach. The results are instantaneous.

* With complex bloat a stomach tube can’t be passed because of the twist between the stomach and esophagus. Treatment requires surgery to untwist the stomach. Sutures that attach the stomach to the body wall help prevent future recurrences.

Bloat tends to recur so prevention is the key. Feed several small meals instead of one big meal. Don’t let your dog go out to play one hour before or two hours after eating. Limit water intake because the rapid mixing of food and water in the stomach promotes the formation of excess gas.

COMPLEMENTARY TREAMENTS

HERBAL REMEDIES
Fresh cabbage juice can help relieve gas build-up initially and provide some relief for cases of mild simple bloat.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
Nux moschata 30C (nutmeg) taken every 15 minutes up the three times can help decrease gas formation. Carbo vegetabilis 30C (charcoal) also helps counteract excessive gas formation.

Constipation occurs occasionally in dogs. Constipation is defined as infrequent or absent defecation with retention of feces in the rectum and colon. Older and less active dogs are most prone. Signs that your dog may have constipation include straining to defecate, with or without dry feces. Causes of constipation include indiscriminate eating, for example garbage and diapers, a lack of dietary fiber, dehydration and obesity. Dogs with chronic diseases, anal sac abscesses and poorly healed pelvic fractures, are also at risk.

WHAT YOU CAN DO
* Increase the fiber in your dog’s diet. Add fresh vegetables ¼ cup of grated raw vegetables per 10 lbs. Along with cooked brown rice or wheat bran. Raw meat acts as a natural laxative. For example, liver tastes good and is a source of B Vitamins and Iron. For long-term prevention increase dietary fiber to ten or 15 percent. Increasing your dog’s fluid intake is also beneficial; try offering honey water, chicken broth and fruit juices.

* Exercise increases blood flow to the intestines and promotes motility which helps prevent constipation.

* Prolonged and/or recurrent bouts of constipation can adversely affect nerve function to the intestines. Confirm a diagnosis with your vet to help avoid long-term consequences.

(NOTE: Constipation can affect older, less active dogs that are dehydrated.)

COMPLEMENTARY TREATEMENTS
HERBAL REMEDIES
Remedy #1: Increase dietary fiber with any of these herbs: Psyllum, Cascara sagrada, Senna, and Aloe.

Remedy #2: For small dogs, soak four pitted prunes in water and mix into a bowl of oatmeal with two tablespoons of milk. Larger dogs should have six to eight pitted prunes prepared in the same way and added to oatmeal with four tablespoons of milk.

Remedy #3: Make planters of edible oats and wheat or try growing edible grass.

HOMEOPATHIC REMEDIES
If spoiled food is the problem try Nux vomica 6c (poison nut): one pellet every 12 hours for three days. For poorly nourished dogs, try Silicea 6c (silicon dioxide/tissue salt): one pellet every 12 hours for three days. Withhold food 10 minutes before and after these treatments.